Gulangyu Island in Xiamen has always been a tourist destination that many people yearn for. It also has a very long history. It was named Gulangyu during the Ming Dynasty because of the sound of the tide, making it the number one most beautiful urban area.
Traveling is actually a willful and extravagant waste of time. It is to stop all the rush, slow down, and slow down even more, doing nothing aimlessly.
You know, it's nice to have the opportunity to do nothing for a while.
Haruko's travel photography, using her cell phone randomly.
Sometimes, we are willing to walk on the road just because we want to walk. The scenic spots are not important, and the distance is not important. What is important is whether you are willing to do it, especially when you are alone.
The three-leaf plum, said to be the city flower of Xiamen, is everywhere on the ground.
Traveling alone is better if you take it slow and it is easy to pass the time. Sleep until you wake up naturally, put on your backpack, go out and start wandering. When you are tired, take a break. If you think a store is good, go in and see if you can have a cup of coffee. Sit quietly and be in a daze. Yes, just be in a daze, be in a daze alone. In the intervals of being in a daze, you can also have the opportunity to "eavesdrop" on other people's stories.
The Book of Songs of Plants and Trees, the taste of handmade cookies is wrong.
The girl on the terrace outside the window was holding a black parasol and carrying a black backpack on her shoulders. After sitting down, she actually ordered a beer, then started drinking, smoking, and browsing her phone. She seemed to be in a bad mood, and made a phone call in the middle with a very aggressive tone.
After a while, four girls came in, sat down and ordered four different cups of coffee, then started taking pictures and chatting, talking about their children's life and work. They should be classmates or colleagues and friends who have known each other for many years. One of them said that she had three children and no one would be able to look down on her anymore. The one sitting opposite her said, don't think too much, your eldest daughter is in college and has grown up, some people don't mind this.
In fact, such comfort is so pale. Remarriage is actually very difficult. It is even more difficult to meet the right person who is not picky and understanding, not to mention that you may also have to consider the feelings of your children.
Life is like this sometimes, full of things that you may not understand or have not encountered.
Encountering a little bear on Gulangyu Island
Walking aimlessly, time flies quickly and a whole day is wasted like this.
There is no one in the old pavilion to play the zither, but the new wind brings the rhythm of the sea. The distant peaks sway beyond the frosty waves, and now I have climbed up to find them everywhere.
The dream of prosperity of international buildings, towering ancient trees and sea breeze.
Tomorrow, continue with the new slow walk.
Sunset
1. Must-read before landing
The first thing you need to know is: you need to buy a boat ticket to go to Gulangyu! Boat is the only means of transportation to the island! Don't wait until you get to the dock to find out that you need to buy a boat ticket. In September this year, due to the typhoon, the number of people allowed to go to Gulangyu Island per day was reduced from 65,000 to about 15,000. Boat tickets are in short supply. If you can confirm the travel time, it is best to buy tickets two or three days in advance.
There are four docks on Xiamen Island where you can take a boat to Gulangyu Island, but not all four docks are open to ordinary tourists.
They are divided into "citizen-only" and "tourist-only". In addition to the summer and winter time differences, the piers that ordinary tourists can go to during the day and at night are also different. In addition, the boats from these four piers can reach three different piers on Gulangyu Island respectively. It is easy to be confused by the route combinations when you first come to Xiamen.
There are many detailed guides about different piers to the island, but you really don’t need to waste your time and brainstorm to understand all the combinations! Because 90% of tourists only need to understand one combination!
1. Best route to the island
Xiamen "Cruise Center Xiagu Wharf" (also called "Dongdu International Cruise Terminal") → Gulangyu "Sanqiutian Wharf"/"Neicuoao Wharf".
If you do not plan to stay overnight on the island, you can buy a boat ticket to Sanqiutian Wharf, which is relatively close to the tourist destinations. Most importantly, there are 24-hour flights from Sanqiutian Wharf back to Xiamen Island.
If you have booked an inn on the island, ask about the specific location of the inn in advance to see whether it is closer to Sanqiutan Pier or Neicuoao Pier.
The last ferry from Xiamen-Gulangyu Wharf in the center of the island departs at 17:40 in winter (October 1st - May 31st of the following year); in summer (June 1st - September 30th), it departs at 18:40. After this time, you can buy tickets to Gulangyu from the Xiamen Ferry Terminal, which was originally open only to citizens.
2. How to buy tickets?
The following methods are recommended in descending order. ① Follow the WeChat public account "Xiamen Ferry Co., Ltd." and select "Buy Tickets" to purchase tickets within 5 days in advance. After the purchase is successful, you can directly swipe your ID card to go to the island. One account supports the purchase of up to 5 tickets at a time.
② Go to the window at the pier to queue up and buy tickets. But during the peak season, after 9 am, you may only be able to buy tickets for the ferry at around 3 pm.
③#I strongly recommend not to#Looking for scalpers, usually from the moment you get off the bus and plan to enter the ferry hall, scalpers will constantly come to talk to you. The ticket price will vary from 80 yuan to 300 yuan depending on the number of tickets on the day.
This situation applies to those who really can't buy tickets but have to go to the island~
Scalpers usually claim that they can get you on the boat and leave immediately. However, according to my own experience, it takes at least another hour before you can actually get on the island, and you may also face the possibility of failing to impersonate someone else.
Moreover, after buying a scalper ticket to the island, if you want to leave the island, you have to go to Sanqiutan Pier to buy a return boat ticket for 18 yuan each.
3. How to get to Xiamen Cruise Center Xiagu Wharf?
Xiamen [Cruise Center Xiagu] Terminal, also known as [Dongdu International Cruise Terminal].
① Xiamen City/High-speed Railway Station [Xiamen Station] → Central Xiamen-Gulangyu Wharf The nearest bus station to Xiamen-Gulangyu Wharf is "Cruise Center Wharf Station". It takes about 10 minutes to walk from the bus station to the ferry ticket hall.
Xiamen has two high-speed rail stations, Xiamen Station and Xiamen North Station. In terms of transportation, Xiamen Station is located in Siming District, which is much more convenient than Xiamen North Station. However, in terms of the number of high-speed rail trains, Xiamen North Station has more.
If you are very lazy and have a poor sense of direction, I suggest you use Didi to get a quick ride. In Xiamen, Didi can accept orders in seconds and the price is not expensive. You still have to walk a few hundred meters to take the bus. Although Xiamen’s public transportation is very convenient, if you are not familiar with the city, it is easy to waste time on it.
② Xiamen North Station → Central Xiagu Wharf: Take bus No. 957 from Xiamen North Station for 50 minutes, get off at [Cruise Center Station], and then walk for 10 minutes.
The taxi journey takes between 40 minutes and 1 hour, depending on the traffic situation.
The price of an express train is about 90 to 120 yuan. If you are not in a hurry and want to take a ride, it can be done for less than 30 yuan.
③ Xiamen Airport → Ferry Terminal: You can take a sightseeing bus from the airport to the central Xiamen-Guangzhou Ferry Terminal, 10 yuan per person. It takes about 30 minutes.
A taxi costs about 50 yuan.
4. Basic information on ticket usage
Ticket price: 35 yuan (standard class)/50 yuan (VIP class).
Frequency: 20 minutes/shift
Dockage: Sanqiutian Wharf (recommended arrival wharf)/Neicuoao Wharf
Length of stay: Up to 15 days
How to use: Just swipe your ID card to go back and forth
Refund and Change: No changes are allowed, but you can apply for a refund before sailing (no less than 1 hour), and a 10% handling fee will be charged for each ticket.
Children's ticket: Children under 1.2m are free. When buying tickets online, you will see the option of whether to bring children. Just check it. Children between 1.2m and 1.5m are half price. An adult can only bring one child. The child's ID card must be provided.
2. Recommended routes to five major scenic spots
The five major scenic spots are: Sunlight Rock (including Zheng Chenggong Memorial Hall and Piano Garden), Shuzhuang Garden (including Piano Museum), Haoyue Garden, International Engraving Museum, and Organ Museum. There are some points worth seeing in the five major scenic spots, but it is not recommended that you spend all your time on them! You can save money and time by "taking the essence and discarding the dross".
Sunlight Rock
Gulangyu's commanding heights, according to regulations, can only have 30 people at most at a time, and each person can only stay there for 5 minutes. In the peak season, you may not get a turn even if you queue for an hour or two.
You can enter the scenic area at 5:30 and see a great sunrise. Buy tickets before 7:30 in the morning and enter the scenic area at half price. There are few people before 8 o'clock, and no one will care how long you stay there. But there is a lot of fog in the morning, which will affect the viewing experience.
The ticket also includes the Zheng Chenggong Memorial Hall and Qin Garden. At 8 o'clock, go down from Sunlight Rock and go directly to the 3rd floor of Zheng Chenggong Memorial Hall. You can have a balcony and overlook the panoramic view of Gulangyu Island. It is closed on Mondays. The highlight of Qin Garden is the Bird Garden. There are bird shows every hour. It is suitable for parents with children. From 9 to 11 o'clock, the tour groups occupy the peak period of Sunlight Rock, and crowds of people will rush up.
Shuzhuang Garden
Tickets are 30 yuan. Open at 8 am and close at 6 pm. A private villa that combines gardens and the sea. It is very beautiful at dusk and there are few people!
International Engraving Museum
It is directly opposite Shuzhuang Garden. It is a bit useless and seems like a bundled sales point. It is not recommended.
Organ Museum
Tickets are 20 yuan. It was originally Bagua Building, one of the ten most luxurious houses on Gulangyu Island. It is recommended to visit for half an hour.
Haoyue Garden
The main attraction is the Zheng Chenggong statue, which can be seen from a distance. It is free to enter after 18:30. There is a beach under the statue, and it is very pleasant to walk along the beach at night. But be careful.
Suggested routes
Go to [Sunlight Rock] before 07:30 → Go straight to the 3rd floor of [Zheng Chenggong Memorial Hall] after 08:00 → Go to [Bird Garden] at 08:30 → [Organ Museum] decide whether to enter based on your interest → Go to other places from 10:00 to 16:00! → Just take a look at [Ganghouzi Bathhouse] at 16:20 → Enter the gate at 16:30 and visit [Shuzhuang Garden] + [Piano Museum] clockwise → Arrive at [Dadeji Bathhouse] at 17:30 to watch the sunset → Free entry to [Haoyue Garden] after 18:30
3. Current status and highlights of international architecture
Consulates of various countries
Historically, Gulangyu belonged to the "International Concession", and a total of 13 countries established consulates here.
Most of these consulates have architectural features of different countries, but not all of them are well preserved. You can just look at them and take pictures outside. Some of them have been reclaimed by the government and used as office space, and some have been renovated. The American Consulate and the Japanese Consulate are the two buildings that are relatively well preserved. I drew a map for you, which shows the locations of the major consulates. If you are interested, just follow the map.
Old Houses of Rich and Celebrities
Let’s talk specifically about the old homes of wealthy businessmen and celebrities.
Most of these wealthy businessmen and celebrities were overseas Chinese at that time, and they all had strong financial backgrounds, so the houses they built on the island were naturally very impressive. Many of the famous villas on Gulangyu Island today were their private estates at that time.
The current status and highlights of the top ten luxury houses on Gulangyu Island: ① "Little White House" Bagua Building: now an organ museum
Highlights: Red dome imitating ancient Islamic architecture + 82 large stone columns based on the ancient Greek Temple of Hera
② Huangjia Garden: It was the "State Guesthouse" of the Xiamen government in the 1950s. It has now been transformed into an inn.
The European architectural style building itself is very attractive.
③ Haitiantang: 88 yuan ticket
The architectural layout is the only building complex on the island that is laid out along a central axis;
The main building is like a Chinese hat pressing on a Western building.
On the right side of the entrance, there are puppet shows and Nanyin performances. Puppet shows start at 09:30 in the morning, with performances at half past one, and Nanyin performances at the hour.
④Huang Rongyuan Hall: You can enter with the ticket of Haitian Hall.
Combination of ancient Greek Doric columns and Chinese pavilions
⑤ Ronggu Villa: One of the few old villas that still retains its original layout, privately owned and entry is not allowed.
⑥Lin’s Mansion: It has now been converted into a high-end inn and is open to only guests staying there.
Highlights: The historical entanglements behind this family are to the old people of Gulangyu what the Forbidden City is to Beijing.
⑦Jingualou: The gate is closed and tourists are not allowed to enter
Highlights: Byzantine-style gourd-shaped roof.
⑧Yangjiayuan: Four villas, part of which was converted into an inn and part of which was converted into a private museum.
Highlights: The roof of the inn overlooks Gulangyu Island, and the windows of the villa are particularly beautiful.
⑨HSBC Residence: Privately owned, not open to the public
Highlights: Built on the edge of a cliff, it looks extremely steep from a distance.
⑩Fanpolou: You can only take photos outside now.
Highlights: Rococo style design
Other buildings
I would also like to recommend two more distinctive buildings. One is the boathouse. It is not far from the US Consulate and is now a family hotel. The whole house is like a ship sailing on land. There is nothing good to see inside the house, but the exterior is more eye-catching.
The other is the Guancai Tower, which has the best rooftop for watching the sunset on Gulangyu Island. The roof is shaped like a coffin, so it is also called the "Coffin Tower."
After arriving on the island, you will find that some buildings have black signs. These are "historical buildings" managed by the government. They can be used, but private renovation is not allowed. Behind these houses is often a witness to a period of history.
My personal experience is that if possible, hire a reliable guide. It is difficult to see the doorway by yourself. Everything has a spirit. When you understand the history of a house and the original designer's mind, your mood when looking at it is completely different. But don't hire a guide without a guide! It's easy to get ripped off!
4. The art shops on Gulangyu Island
①Miss Zhao's shop: No. 11-10 Longtou Road. The most popular items are pies, tea and grass jelly.
② Zhang San Feng Milk Tea Shop: 1F, No. 8 Longtou Road. It is said that the special thing about their milk tea is that almond slices and raisins are added to the milk tea.
③Su Xiaotang Baking Life Museum: No. 51, Quanzhou Road. Nougat is very famous.
④Haowai Milk Tea: No. 8-117, Longtou Road. The milk tea tastes light. If you spend more than 20 yuan, you will get a white bottle. Many people will doodle on the bottle with oil paint pens.
⑤Chen Can Western Tea Shop: No. 282 Longtou Road. A specialty shop selling canned tea.
⑥Nora and Pierno: No. 20 Huangyan Road. Buy home accessories and personal accessories.
⑦Mango Nutcracker: No. 466 Longtou Road. The specialty is the wooden nutcracker puppet.
⑧Pan Xiaolian Yogurt: No. 8 Longtou Road. The decoration style is exotic, and the main products are yogurt and coconut cakes.
⑨ Forrest Gump Post: No. 178 Longtou Road. You can write a postcard and send it to yourself or your friends in a few years.
5. Longtou Road Food Recommendations
The snacks and delicacies of Gulangyu Island are concentrated in Longtou Road. However, if you interact with Xiamen locals, they will definitely advise you not to eat seafood on the island. In the minds of local people, eating seafood on Gulangyu Island is already equated with cheating.
Longtou Road is the most famous food street in Gulangyu. Although there are no restaurants that you must eat at, there are some time-honored shops that have been around for decades that you can try.
Longtou Road snacks recommended
① Malasang: The one with the best reputation should be No. 181 Longtou Road.
② Fish balls: The most famous fish balls on Longtou Road are Lin Ji Fish Balls, but they have too many branches and the quality varies. You must look for the one at No. 54 Quanzhou Road, which is mostly in the courtyard and usually sold out before 7 o'clock. Some friends also recommended the Yuanxiangkou Fish Balls at No. 62 Longtou Road, saying that they are better than Lin Ji, but I haven't verified it yet.
③ Oyster Omelette: No. 189, Longtou Road. The oysters are very fresh. The owner said they are shipped from Longhai every day. There is a unique seasoning. If you don't mind, you can try it.
④ Noodle soup: No. 200 Longtou Road. Go there before 10 am. They are right at the entrance of the vegetable market. Noodle soup is available for a limited time every day.
⑤ Ye's Mochi: A mobile stall on Longtou Road, a traditional stall that has existed for many years. People line up to buy it every day, and the supply is limited. The stall will close once it is sold out.
⑥ Longtou Beizai Cake: This is a very inconspicuous old shop, but it has been highly praised by locals for decades. It is located at No. 302 Longtou Road. There are all kinds of flavors. Some people love it, while others complain about it. Students from the north should be careful when choosing!
⑦ Earthworm Jelly: I recommend No. 178 Longtou Road. The main thing about this is that the earthworm jelly is made by boiling sandworms, which is not acceptable to everyone.
Recommended restaurants for dinner
If you want to eat a full meal, you can just open Dianping and sort by the reviews. It is still very reliable. The following recommendations are all restaurants that I have personally tried and found to be delicious.
① Regeneration Sea: No. 9 Guxin Road. It is a very cost-effective restaurant on Gulangyu Island. We recommend the seafood stew and oyster crisps, which taste very fresh and the decoration is also nice.
② Sweet Life: No. 340, Longtou Road. The portions are large, the owner is Taiwanese, and the service attitude is super good. I recommend the pork chop rice.
③ Yupu: No. 19, Quanzhou Road. This is the No. 1 private Fujian restaurant on Gulangyu Island. The price is a bit expensive, but the taste, environment and service are excellent.
④ No. 35 Private Kitchen: Located at No. 35, Bishan Road, it looks like a private residence and is hard to find. I highly recommend the longli fish, which has almost no fish bones. You don't have to wait for a table if you make a reservation in advance.
Recommended souvenirs
① Huang Shengji Golden Fragrant Meat Floss Store: There are many stores in Xiamen, but if you want to buy it, make sure to go to No. 95 Longtou Road, which is the oldest and most authentic.
② Jinlan Cake Shop: The only one in Xiamen, with an old-style storefront, the most traditional craftsmanship and packaging. The packaging is not suitable for gifts, but the taste is very good. It has been open for more than 30 years. I love coconut cakes the most. It is located at No. 413 Neicuoao Road.
